Another Year in Tokyo

And sometimes elsewhere.

Travel

As I can't predict how long I am going to stay in Japan, I have decided to tour Japan the best I can using weekends and holidays. I do a lot of economic day trips, or spend one or two nights in a traditional Ryokan with exceptional food for a little luxury sometimes.

June: places to go in and from Tokyo

Best with: plum sake (umeshu, or 梅酒), and non-stop rainy days.

June has not been my favorite month of year. It is after the golden-week vacation, it gets hot and sweaty easily, it marks the start of the rainy season in Tokyo area, and the worst of all: it has no public holidays in it – all makes it a bit hard to plan any getaways in this long month.

However, when I was checking my old pictures over the years, I realized I did travel around quite a lot during this month. Those were all little day trips, or one night, tops; but there are many beautiful pictures of this particular season when one of my favorite flowers blooms in the area of Tokyo: the hydrangea, or Ajisai (紫陽花) in both Japanese and Chinese.

Where to see hydrangea blossoms in Tokyo area

Interestingly, my first blog here is about this flower, and you can review that one for some old picture. It is about my favorite town near Tokyo as well, Kamakura, where I have been millions of times.

In the city of Tokyo, my favorite spot for seeing this flower is Hakusan shrine (白山神社). I used to live very close to it, so maybe that is also why. I found some old pictures again, some featuring a younger version of me. 🙂

Outside of Tokyo… green looks the best after rain in Nikko (日光)

By the end of June, or even beginning of July, the entire east Japan is in the middle of the rainy season. Every year, it has been difficult to decide where to go to celebrate P’s birthday, which is on July 1st. Actually, there are quite some gems that shine even better after a good rain.

This is where people visit during summer, the sacred mountain area north to Tokyo: Nikko (日光). I have been to it numerous times, including in summer when it brings coolness and autumn when the leaves are just beautiful. You would imagine in June it may be less beautiful, but actually the greenish nature after rain is just like a fairytale coming true:

Or, go north to get a good dip in the Onsen (温泉) in the northern prefectures

The north part of east Japan can be difficult to get there, as it is not like the big cities such as Tokyo where you have dozens of lines at each train station. Nontheless, I always imagine it is how Japan should look like behind the curtains.

To escape the heat, I would travel north to wander in the nature, or in the “ghost” towns. The trip to Iwate prefecture, Ichinoseki city (岩手県一関市) and the nearby Hanamaki town (花巻) was one of such memories. The views are amazing. And nothing beats a good night rest in a cozy Onsen Ryokan (温泉旅館) near some mountain stream with rain in the background, where you can both warm up after a long day and enjoy a traditional and less pricy Kaiseki Ryori (懐石料理), sometimes with quality Japanese beef, or Wagyu (和牛).

This year, where should I go (if possible at all..)?

Restaurant review: The never ending summer, Bangkok, Thailand

Some party layout being arranged when we were leaving. Dec 2018.

By the end of last fall, I had become rather anxious. Yes I had landed my dream MBA program, and I had just returned from an exotic trip to Israel and Jordan, but something was missing; something that always drove me more than anything else – the great food experience in a foreign land. (No offense to Israel and Jordan; we will talk later. )

So my friend and I decided to take actions. We both needed a getaway from working in Japan (you know what I mean) for the past year, and especially for me – I wanted an advanced reward before starting the busy MBA year; so here we were, the land of smile – Thailand.

It would take so many words to talk about Thailand, and I don’t think it is fair to use just one post to record my experience with this magical country. So, I have decided to start a series; restaurant reviews, coffee shops and pubs, and perhaps something else. Although this is my first time there, I have a strong feeling that I will definitely go back again and again, every now and then. We will see.

Today, it is just about this one restaurant, a pleasant discovery in Bangkok.

To be honest, the name of it didn’t strike me as a quality restaurant, to begin with. The never ending summer. Hmm. You see too many fancy-slash-high end names for restaurants that cannot provide the food worth the name. Naturally, I hesitated when my friend suggested to go in the first place. I guess this also helped with the perception.

Anyhow, the first thing that I liked is the location. Of course it is. It is almost in the center of Bangkok – the old part, not Sukhumvit. It is nicely located in a quiet corner, very close to the river bank. It is very chic and very Bangkok; we actually spent a lot of time posing and taking pictures outside of it – I would say too much time since our ice tea almost became warm.

You can find many places to do your professional photo shooting in Bangkok, I am sure of that; but why not doing it time-efficiently with a location that is also accessible to a good restaurant. 🙂

OK, to get back to topic. The food.

Some would argue that you can never go wrong with any restaurant in Bangkok. Well, that might be true by large. But with limited amount of time we have as travelers, it is rather important to secure the very best ones on the list. And since most of them are good ones, why not going a little off-track and try something new-ish and stylish?

The never ending summer has all the typical Thai food options you would want to check off your list: Pad Thai, red/green curry, Tom Yum soup, and everything else. But they do it not only correctly, but also with a hint of raw creativity.

The very Thai spices combined with raw tropical leafs that make your flavor palette on fire and ice at the same time, and the hidden sweetness and sourness will comfort you in surprise; the scrambled eggs and rice noodles blended in with each other in harmony with the help of the rich flavors brought by the right amount of oil, fish sauce, and certainly all kinds of spices; the perfect for anything combination of salt and sugar, which almost tripled the sweetness of the most delicious watermelon I had ever had… I just wished I had nine stomaches, like a cow or something.

Overall, very decent place with great food and ambience, not to mention its access to the river bank and being in the central area of Bangkok. I am definitely going back again.

Like they said, you can never go too wrong with any restaurant in Bangkok; I totally stand by it. That is why, beyond the quality food, it is such a nice surprise what this place can offer which makes your impression of food in Bangkok just more colorful, and more chic.

Recommending 5 star (out of 5) 😉

Trip report – Kanazawa, the golden city in silver

In January I went on my first trip this year, to a part of Japan that was completely new to me, and possibly to many of the foreign travelers as well – Kanazawa (金沢市), the capital city of Ishikawa prefecture (石川県) of the Hokuriku (北陸) area.

For most travelers, when speaking of Japan, many think of Kyoto (京都) immediately, and then perhaps the other famous ancient city nearby – Nara (奈良), and young people especially may think of Tokyo (東京) first instead. Even for Japanese, the Hokuriku area is not a typical place that they consider for vacation or something (to my best understanding). One thing is, it used not to be very convenient to be there for Tokyo dwellers to begin with. But it all changed with the opening of Hokuriku Shinkansen the first year I came to Japan, and then the promotion of this area to remind people of its beauty and charms.

During my visit, it was just in time for a series of heavy snows. People may think: Oh what a bad luck! But actually, quite the opposite. The golden city by name was so lovely in white with the snows, and the sea urchins and Japanese sake just got even more delicious under the snowy atmosphere, not to mention soaking in the outdoor onsen while appreciating the falling snow flakes… I felt very lucky. And I felt wise to have carried my camera all the way during the trip. Therefore, although there are some must-go places which should be introduced in a typical trip report, after struggling for 2 days, I decided to tell the story mainly using pictures; so, here it comes, my not-so-useful-but-fully-pictured trip report –

A corner in Kenrokuen (兼六園); one of the must-go places in Kanazawa. I just liked the small teahouses by the ponds.

Have some hot matcha tea with fried rice balls. There are even gold foil flakes in the tea.

While P was checking how to get to our hotel, I wandered around the gift shops to see what to bring back this time. It was no wonder why the city is called Kanazawa (金沢, golden swamp by the name); there were so many products made of gold foil – gold foil mask, gold foil coffee, gold foil icecream, just to list a few. I am sure you will find your favorite gold foil product here.

Gold foil soft cream.

Let me do my due diligence to give some introduction after all. Kenrokuen garden (兼六園) is one of the Three Great Gardens in Japan (三大名園). It is a large garden with beautiful ponds here and there, and different bridges and trees arranged with good sense – if you are very into the Japanese gardens, Kenrokuen is like a collection of such beauties. Not to mention all the tea rooms (茶室) there are overlooking the ponds, that could bring you into a picture. I liked the hot amazake (甘酒, sweet Japanese sake) a lot, and I actually sit outside by the pond and had a cup of it.

Next to Kenrokuen is the Kanazawa Castle (金沢城). It was a cool Castle, and perhaps the most stunning moment we had over there was when we dared to try out the gold foil ice cream in a coffee shop close to the Castle. Spoiler alert! Gold foil actually tastes like, nothing – not really a flavor anyway, but it does do a good job in shining up your lip!

 

When we arrived the East Teahouse Street (東茶屋街) it was still of dim light. Two Japanese girls checking their pictures just taken.

The main street of East Teahouse Street in the dark.

When visiting the northern part of Japan, be it Hokuriku, Tohoku, or Hokkaido, it is recommended to pay a tribute to the local Japanese sakes while having the crabs and fishes harvested from the nearby sea of Japan for dinner in any restaurant or izakaya (居酒屋). A very recommended place is Omi-cho Market (近江町市場). There are fresh vegetables and seafood on sale, delicious food stand, and small izakayai open until late in the night.

I was all for the sea urchins. Unlike in Tokyo, sea urchins here are more common and even come with such a small plate of assorted Sashimi.

 

unluckily, the more famous crab ran out of stock that day. But this one was also delicious! Usually Japanese don’t eat female crabs, unless for this kind of crab.

 

Oyster is also one of the famous food here. It says “raw eating OK”. We were in time for the oyster festival (牡蠣祭り) and had some free oysters on the first day.

It says “loach”, well, to me it tastes close to Unagi (鰻), sea eel.

 

This is my favorite! Sea urchins. You can actually eat rawly right here, they provide sauce – but I don’t really need it.

 

Yummy!!

 

Kanazawa Oden (おでん) is kind of famous, too. It goes well with Japanese sake.

Besides the beautiful garden and castle, Kanazawa is also an elegant city to wander around. We had too compact a day on our first day there, therefore on the second day, we decided to simply get lost in this silver world – at least this was what I thought. We didn’t use the public transportation but walked aimlessly, and when the snow got heavy we just hid and waited, had some tea or just got ourselves.

Near the Nomura Samurai House (野村家　武家敷跡) area.

 

Lovely chinaware in a lovely Japanese styled house. Kaburaki-shop (鏑木商舗).

Take a random rest with rice cake and a cup of tea.

 

The tea room on the top level of Nomura Samurai House. I was sitting there having a moment of myself, while taken picture by a Japanese gentleman passing by.

After two full days touring around Kanazawa, I spent my second night at a onsen hotel in Kaga (加賀). Kaga is on the west of Kanazawa, with a 40 minutes rail riding, close to Fukui prefecture (福井県). As usual, I had a restful night with the fancy kaiseki ryori (懐石料理) and some good Japanese sake.

Outside the window of our room is the view of a creek in a narrow valley.

The Japanese sake we had for dinner. It is said to be served in Nobel award reception before.

 

In the morning. It was still snowing in the mountains with thin flog.

Walking around the small onsen town. The town in the far background looks like in a fairy world.

 

Before leaving for home, let’s have a bowl of hot kani shiru (蟹汁, crab meat miso soup), and get warmed up.

And, until the next time, we will be back to home, in Tokyo. 🙂

5 places: Fall for the colors of the season

A year passes by too quickly. Recently I have been waiting patiently for some good weather days to go out and appreciate this colorful season, as late Fall in Tokyo is my second favorite season (right after Summer). Every year, from end of September, the steamy weather starts to cool down, the humid air dries up little by little, and the sunset starts to look milder than in Summer, and, eventually, the city starts to get colors warming you up in the colder days from November to middle of December, when people in Japan go out to appreciate the colors of the Fall, which you probably knew already, is to see the Momiji, or Kouyou (紅葉) in different spots (名所).

I got to appreciate the leaves in different spots in and near Tokyo this year. Some are famous spots, while the others may be a little out of the box. But, they are all so beautiful and I can’t wait to share some pictures with you just in time of this beautiful season in Japan.

Enjoy! 🙂

  • Lake Kawaguchi-ko (河口湖), Yamanashi prefecture (山梨県)

Lake Kawaguchi-ko is one of the hot spots for appreciating the leaves. It is popular, because you do not only see the beautiful mountain leaves around the Lake, but also since Mount Fuji is very close, on a clear day you would see it so close as if the Lake were by its foot.

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On top of the bridge across Lake Kawaguchi-ko and take a panorama.

Getting there is easy, but quite a long trip from Tokyo. I spent a good 3 hours trip just by train. When finally arrive there, you can take a tour bus to get to different spots along the lake, or just like what I have done, you can literally walk around. After all, Japan is not a huge country, so is its small towns, not to mention you don’t have to walk too much to get to the views as there is a bridge across the lake which is a perfect spot for taking panorama pictures of the great views surrounding you.

In the mountains, it is known that the leaves turn earlier than in the cities. So, if you are interested to go, go early in around mid to late November. (But also be prepared for the crowds 🙂 )

Couple water bicycling in the lake. Photo taken from the bridge.

Looking to your back, Mount Fuji is so close!

  • Chichibu (秩父), Saitama prefecture (埼玉県)

Chichibu area is huge! I never got to see enough of it to be able to provide a good review. But I was assured it was a great place for appreciating the leaves, for its rural beauty in the embrace of the mountains in the back of Saitama, combined with the vivid countryside life images everywhere, and of a nostalgic Showa (昭和) touch as in the good old time.

This year I went to a place called Mitsumineguchi (三峰口), a small town at the end of Chichibu Railway, disconnected from the center of Chichibu. Well, if you are tired of the people mountain people sea in other famous spots, here you will be surprised to see very few people, so few that it is kind of lonely, however the leaves don’t care about people anyway, which is good.

Another thing you can experience when go to Chichibu is taking the classic SL train. Not sure how many of you are clueless of what SL trains are until actual seeing one… But it is actually less fun when being inside it, except that you will get envious looking from those outside the train window, standing along the rails waiting to wave at you and take pictures of you with the train. Just be prepared to be photographed.

Looking at the SL train operating at the end of Chichibu Railway. A town at the entrance of the mountains.

Walking towards the back mountains from the station, took a picture from a bridge (again).

The mountains. Too bad I can’t PS away the wires. But still it’s beautiful.

  • Shosenkyo (昇仙峡) – Chichibu Tama Kai National Park (秩父多摩甲斐国立公園), Kofu Yamanashi prefecture (山梨県甲府)

This place I went last year, but it is quite close to above two places, so I just listed here to make my list complete. Actually, last year when I went there, it was a little too late as the leaves had started to fall. It was late November. I bet every year it varies in terms of the best timing to go; you just need to plan neatly and look up closely the information provided by the weather forecast program on TV.

Beautiful maple leaves overlooking the stream down in the valley

Into the back of the mountain

  • Rikugien Garden (六義園), Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo (東京都文京区)

Rikugien Garden is one of my favorite places for autumn leaves in town. It is located in the quiet and academic area of Tokyo, Bunkyo-ku, very close to its most famous university, the University of Tokyo, and it is also a frequented place of the seniors living nearby.

It used to be a private garden of a lord in old Japan, and now turned into a beautiful garden open to the public. It is unlike the typical Japanese gardens you probably know a lot from visiting Kyoto or Nara, in that it is more natural and colorful, and was built with a sense of natural landscape in mind, which is quite rare and considered by myself a luxury since land in Tokyo is always in scarcity.

I like the way it is colored layer by layer, and from each angle it shows a different painting, all beautifully organized. It somehow reminds me of classic Chinese gardens.

As in the city, the leaves just start to get colors in late Nov. Should have come later.

  • the University of Tokyo (東京大学), Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo (東京都文京区)

It is on the bottom of my list, because I am hesitant to share it with others. Not that it is not worth it, but rather the opposite: it is too perfect – Todai (東大, short for the University of Tokyo) main campus is rich of history, and such a tranquil haven in the luminescent city of Tokyo. The beautiful Ginkgo trees lining up along the road covered with fallen leaves to its main auditorium, and around every corner of the campus, there will be a picture of such warm colors.

On a good day, it is perfect for a walk with family and pet, or a date with your beloved one. Perfect for pictures as well.

A random corner at the University of Tokyo

In the center of the backyard of the campus, there is a huge Gingko tree. Families with children play under it when it is a good day.

 

The road leading up to the main auditorium.

And such a happy girl 🙂

There are surely other famous spots as well. Some I have been to and found not so worthy of it, while others I shall explore more before sharing – probably next year when it is the season again.

Trip report: Hakone in summer for 2 days

If one wants to escape from the jungle of steels and concrete named Tokyo, especially on a hot summer day as it usually is here, Hakone (箱根) is on my list of top recommended destinations for a one or two days trip.

Summer here ranges from early May to end of August, and is divided in halves by the rainy season in June and most of July. Early summer before the rainy season is always nice and dry. And when the rainy season ends, good weather starts to reign again except when there is typhoon (we had 3 this year), and it also becomes super hot – could be 35 or above.

This year the rainy season ended by July 28th, just the day before my planned 2 days trip to Hakone (箱根), a beautiful town not far from Tokyo. And as a result, I got to enjoy the great weather and take a good amount of nice pictures, with Mount Fuji visible even from Lake Ashino-ko (芦ノ湖). How lucky!

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At Lake Ashino-ko on the 2nd day. Mount Fuji is clearly visible in the back.

We  took Odakyu Romance-Car (小田急ロマンスカー) from Shinjuku, and got off at the last stop, Hakone-Yumoto Station(箱根湯本駅). Hakone-Yumoto is the onsen town where most tourists stay for the night when visiting Hakone. It is very recommended to stay at an onsen ryokan (温泉旅館) in Hakone, and in summer the price is not as high as in autumn, although it could still be up to ¥25,000 per person. Quite a lot of money but expectable when traveling in Japan.

However, you will get the service and experience worth it. In an onsen ryokan of such price, an unique experience of authentic Japanese hospitality in a traditional way is guaranteed, and you get to know the word “service” at a new level every time they bow and the phrase “wabi-sabi” by the atmosphere in the traditional Japanese room (和室), not to mention the fancy Kaiseki Ryori(懐石料理) served, which is too delicious and beautiful to eat.

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Hakone is quite close to the sea, hence fresh raw fish is a must. Wasabi is always served, but I love the leaves underneath the fish better as spice. And don’t forget to try some Japanese sake (お酒), you will love it!

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For not so fish-addicted you, the Japanese beef (和牛) is more than a compromise – but rather a compliment. There are different brands and ranks, but an easy way to tell how good the beef is is to look at the pattern of fat (the white dots) in it.

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Even the breakfast is literally a feast.

(The topic of Japanese ryokan itself would be worth another full article. I will share my experiences with different ryokans in series. )

Even though many Japanese travel just for the sake of a good rest at an onsen ryokan, in Hakone I suggest you get out of your comfortable cushion seat (座布団), and explore this beautiful town at the foot of Mount Fuji area.

It is very convenient to tour Hakone with public transportation which includes rails, buses, and cruises across the lake. At Hakone-Yumoto Station, Passes that cover most such transportation could be purchased for multiple days. It is highly recommended if you plan to visit many places within Hakone, or if you are staying for more than 1 day. (The Pass is valid to reach Odawara-shi(小田原市), but not Izu(伊豆), so buses connected to Izu are not applicable. )

Alright. With a 2-day Pass at hand, it would be a waste if we don’t ride as much as possible. My actual and recommended itinerary is:

Day 1 –

  1. from Hakone-Yumoto Station, take Hakone Tozan Tetsudo(箱根登山鉄道) to Gora Station(強羅駅). It goes inside the mountain so be prepared to see a lot of green. Also, in order to climb up the steep mountain, the train goes up in zigzag which is quite fun.
  2. from Gora Station, take Hakone Tozan Cable-Car(箱根登山ケーブルカー) to Mount Sounzan Station (早雲山駅). The cable car has steps inside it, well, quite strange design to a first timer.
  3. from Mount Sounzan Station, take Hakone Ropeway(箱根ロープウェイ) to Owakudani(大涌谷), and stop there for a while to view the hot spring field with sulfur smoke coming up continuously, and don’t forget to buy some onsen eggs made here. Hakone Ropeway just re-opened on July 27th this year, after more than a year of out-of-service due to volcanic activity. It is said they consulted experts, and it was declared safe, although special populations may need some caution.
  4. make sure to leave Owakudani before the last ride of Hakone Ropeway at 4:00 pm. Take Hakone Ropeway in the same direction until the last stop, Ubako(姥子), which is at Lake Ashino-ko.
  5. from Ubako, take the “pirate ship” across Lake Ashino-ko, and arrive at Moto-Hakone(元箱根).

This is never as difficult as it appears. The transitions are all very close, and the Japanese are good at making public transportation fun and comfortable, and you get to see Hakone from different angles as well, not to mention the precious opportunity to know the pleasant smell of sulfur at Owakudani.

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Hakone Tozan Tetsudo. This is what the average Japanese tourist in Hakone ride: it is safe, cheap, and fun!

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Ropeway from Sounzan. Before reaching the edge of Owakudani, the greens in the mountain are so pleasant and, peaceful.

Well… the pleasant never lasts long.

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Then, without even a slight sign, Owakudani seems rather frightening as looking down from a carriage in the air. Basically no plants survive in this kind of environment.

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Moto-Hakone. The torii of Hakone Shrine was hardly seen under dim light.

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Near Moto-Hakone, the cedar trees road which is part of the ancient Tokaido(東海道). Good for a casual walk before sunset when the sunlight is enchanting.

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Back to Hakone-Yumote.

It is worth noting that most stores in the streets of Hakone-Yumote close before even 6:00 pm. If you want to buy anything, such as snacks or Japanese sake, buy early.

After such a day, it is rewarding to soak yourself in onsen to wash away the dust and the tiredness. While, technically speaking, dust must be washed away in shower before going into the “bathtub”. And we should get naked in onsen – not a single piece of clothes, but you can use the small towel prepared by the Ryokan to cover your significant body parts. You will get used to it.

Day 2 –

After another round of morning time onsen, it was time to check-out. Most ryokans have check-out time at around 10:00 am, which is not very convenient for those who are not good at getting up early (me). However, in a Ryokan, it is easy to sleep early and tight all-night, and as a result get up early the next morning. The reason is simple: after a great dinner in terms of both taste and amount, and one or two rounds of onsen, it becomes too comfortable not to sleep well in the cute yukata (浴衣) and warm and soft futon (布団).

Anyway, after check-out, we stored our luggage at the front desk and started out again. I picked a different route today:

  1. in front of Hakone-Yumoto station we took bus that went through the Old Street (旧街道), and got off at Old Street Steps stop (旧街道石畳). The entrance was right next to the bus stop. Did a casual hiking from here until the Moto Hakone port (元箱根港). It was an easy hiking of about 30 – 40 minutes.
  2. At Moto Hakone, the weather was so good and we stopped there and appreciated Mount Fuji in the background for quite a while. Other options could be fishing or boating, or having a picnic as there are some sitting area.
  3. We rode the cruise with a different company, which unfortunately costed separately. However, the good news was we could buy a combined ticket with a round-trip ropeway to the top of Mount Komaga-dake (駒ヶ岳), which was definitely worth it. What’s more, because the cruise costed separately, it was also a rather more comfortable ride with fewer tourists.
  4. We got off the cruise at Hakone-en (箱根園), and rode the round-trip ropeway to Komaga-dake (駒ヶ岳). It could cost a good 2 hours there depending on what you want to do: picnic, rest and take a view of the city or Mount Fuji, or even take a nap.
  5. Then we rode the bus from Hakone-en to Hakone-Yumoto, took the luggage and caught the train back to Tokyo.

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At the entrance to Old Street (旧街道石畳). It was not crowded at all because most tourists were either at the Lake Ashino or the Owakudani, leaving here tranquil.

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Riding the boat across Lake Ashino-ko. Hakone Shrine was glowing under sunlight.

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Looking down from top of Komaga-dake to Lake Ashino-ko.

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There is a small shine on the top of Komaga-dake. Looking through the little Torii in the direction of Tokyo (perhaps).

There are not too many average restaurants on the way. You could opt for a light lunch after a big breakfast in the ryokan, such as a sandwich or onigiri (🍙) from a convenient store and eat at the top of Komaga-dake or near Lake Ashino-ko. If you want to sit down under a roof to eat, then go to a random ramen place or udon place; those are not super-delicious, but are a good choice for a quick and satisfying lunch.

This is the end of the trip report. I want to thank you for reading to the end of it! It should have been out in summer, when you were planning your trip to Tokyo area, or sweating under the hot weather and looking for some trip ideas to cool down… Oh my late stage procrastination! However, now that I finally finished it, I hope it could be helpful when you are planning your trip, say, next year. 🙂

Rainy season: Kamakura in blue

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Ajisai in Engakuji (円覚寺), Kamakura

With this lovely picture I took in June this year, I am very pleased to start the very first post of my little blog, with my favourite season in my favourite place in Japan so far, which is the rainy season in Kamakura (鎌倉).

Kamakura, is a small seaside city/town in Kanagawa-ken (神奈川県), an hour away by train from Tokyo. In weekends, I sometimes feel an urge to escape from the forest of concretes and steels, and the crowds in the streets of Tokyo, and flee to Kamakura – well, sometimes or most of the times Kamakura is no less crowded, given its location and renowned history usually described as “little Kyoto”, but the greens and the blues, the ancient temples and shrines still cure me never the less.

For the locals it is no news, but Kamakura is specially beautiful in the rainy season in Japan. It doesn’t mean it is less attractive in other seasons, but in the rainy season, when people are depressed by the cloudy weather or the showering rain almost everyday, it is the best time to visit Kamakura again, to see the city in a different set of colours – purple and blue, of the sacred flower of the God of rain, Ajisai (紫陽花).

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Ajisai in Engaku-ji (円覚寺), Kamakura

Engaku-ji (円覚寺) is about 200 meters away from Kita-Kamakura train station (北鎌倉駅), so it is always my first stop when visiting Kamakura. Unlike other famous temples or shrines in Kamakura, Engakuji is more peaceful and a typical scene of Japanese style “wabi – sabi” with its laid-back atmosphere. It is never as crowded as others. As a result, it is to my point of view the most suitable with Ajisai in the rain.

While appreciating the melancholy beauty of the flowers, you can also try Zen meditation and Sutras writing there, after perhaps, having tea at the tea ceremony with the monks.

Ajisai with a temple in its background

Ajisai with a temple in its background at Engaku-ji (円覚寺)

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Ajisai in full bloom at Engaku-ji (円覚寺)

Meigetsu-in (明月院) would be my second stop and the most recommended place for appreciating Ajisai. It is also a cute temple with bunnies here and there. At weekends of the season, it is very crowded with locals and visitors, not to mention cameras and tripods, which is good proof of its beauty.

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The bunny on a bridge right after entering Meigetsu-in (明月院), looking down to the stream with a turtle accompanied

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Ajisai in full bloom, with bamboos in the background, at Meigetsu-in (明月院)

People here feel blessed with the sacred flower, and small arrangements with it can be seen everywhere.

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Ajisai decorating the bamboo door of a backyard in Meigetsu-in (明月院)

 

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Ajisai holden by a monk statue

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A slightly different colour, with bees inside at Meigetsu-in (明月院)

Another temple as famous spot for Ajisai is Hase-dera (長谷寺). To get there you can either walk, as Kamakura is not a big city anyway and good for wandering around, and it takes about 30 minutes to get there. Or, you can walk down the only main street after getting out of Meigetsu-in until Kamakura train station, and from there take Enoden (江ノ電) for 3 stops, and get off at the station Hase (長谷).

I went to Hase-dera (長谷寺) for Ajisai last year. When I went there, it was a little late for the season, as the flowers had started to fade away. I don’t have good pictures for it as a result, but just one that is my favourite and I even painted after it:

At Hase-dera (長谷寺)

At Hase-dera (長谷寺)

So, here you go. Top three recommended places for Ajisai, to tour in Kamakura in the rainy season. The city as a whole is blurred away in the rain, as though there were a background melody from ancient time.

June to early July is not as crowded as in spring when people come to see sakura, nor as in late July to August which is the typical traveling season for every country, nor as in autumn when weather is much better and in late autumn the crowds come again for the leaves. It is kind of an off season, even for the locals. But, I find the rain in the background especially curing, when visiting the ancient cities or the sub-urban areas outside Tokyo.

I am also working on other trip diaries during rainy season, please be sure to check them out when available. 🙂

Thanks for reading (until the end)! Please share with me your comments, be it on the topic, the pictures, the information provided, or the grammar!